Third time to Hawaii and this time to the Big Island – literal to its name. Post covid travel is as crazy as it sounds. After spending a crazy year dreading about the pandemic ,(Well we did travel in 2020 – to India , during onset of covid. Got stuck in India due to boarder closures for 4 months ) , when we got vaccinated by February we started making plans for our first flight post covid and guess what first came to our mind – Hawaii.
This trip was also made possible by Southwest as they offered 1+1 companion pass with their credit card. And we had to make use of the already cheaper flights to fly to paradise once again! Honestly Big Island needs lot more time than rest of the islands owing to its size but we tried to visit all the best things in a week and I thought we did good. In the end I will provide suggestions on other spots to goto if you have more time. Here is a week (7-days) itinerary to Big island, Hawaii.
Day 1: Fly Into Kona. Get to Airbnb and chill
There are two major airports in Big island. Kona (Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport – KOA ) and Hilo (Hilo International Airport – ITO). I guess choose whatever is cheaper. For us with Southwest and Austin as start point, Kona worked cheaper. Since we were going to fly out from Kona, we planned to start exploring island from farther end. So after landing in Kona and picking the rental car, we started driving to Hilo (about 1.5hrs). It was late night when we reached our airbnb in Keaau (15mins south of Hilo) so we went straight to bed.
Note on car rental in Hawaii: Everytime we have been to Hawaii we always booked an intermediate car, nothing fancy. But have always been upgraded to a convertible (we had not even asked for it). Sometimes its just luck but I think its good to ask the rental agency when checking-in if they could offer an upgrade. Hawaiians are one of the most friendly people we have come across. They will do everything they can to make your trip memorable.
Day 2: Explore Hilo, Pahoa
Woke up to a beautiful morning well rested for week long excursions. Our breakfast is always at the Airbnb. we had picked up whatever stuffs we need last night from a Safeway in Hilo. First stop in Big Island – Kaimū Beach Park in Pahoa – new black sand beach created from the recent lava flows, cant swim, just a stop point – will need to walk on lava fields. Next in Pahoa Kehena Black Sand Beach – beautiful beach for taking a swim in the mornings but optional clothing. We did not go to this one 😀 , just some shots from far. Next stop Isaac Hale Park known for Pohoiki Black Sand Beach – we spent a good time here exploring the newest beach that was an after effect of 2018 lava flow. Not good for swimming or snorkeling as the waves are too rough. Afternoons can be extremely hot on the black sand. There are some thermal pools with good natural water for relaxing on a cool evening. We then headed to Hilo town making several stops because the route is beautiful at every corner! We had lunch at Ken’s House of Pancakes – contrary to the reviews we did not like the food, but I hear some of the pork and beef options are way better.
Post lunch we visited Wailuku River State Park which is right beside Hilo town and home to some touristy spots in Hilo area. First stop – Rainbow falls , easy route, plenty parking – if you are lucky you will see rainbow over the falls on a sunny day – we did not. Next stop Boiling Pots overlook where you can see Pe‘epe‘e Falls and the boiling pots – these pots are lava created , spaced, nearly vertical columns which filled with river water eventually and when water rises in these pots, they become turbulent and appears to be boiling. Last stop in the state park was Kaumana Caves – bring torch to walk into 1881 lava-tube created by Mauna Loa. After this we went to Liliʻuokalani Park and Gardens for relaxing sunset views. This beautiful park in Hilo has many koi ponds, a Japanese garden and connects to tiny Coconut Island by a walkable bridge. Pretty impressive views. Most Hilo restaurants were closing early at night( as early as 7-8PM) . We picked up dinner from Tetsumen , a local Ramen place and headed to our airbnb.
Day 3: Explore North east of the Island
We started early morning drive to Waipiʻo Valley – took about 1.5hrs from our airbnb in Keaau. I would say don’t do this point if you are not planning to hike/drive down into the valley. The lookout itself is pretty but nothing distinctive. Beauty is when you descend down to the beach. Hike is 4.5 miles out and back route with steep elevation drop(some places 40%) in the beginning. This route is used by both hikers and vehicles so could be bit annoying. Only 4×4(AWD) vehicles are allowed to drive down and into the muddy path later but we also saw some shuttle services. Ask and plan before going if you don’t plan to hike. Easy hike down but hard on legs coming back up but worth it. Wild horses, waterfalls to the ocean, plenty shade, Waipio river joining into the ocean, the Waipio valley view , black sand beach – all hit the right chords.
After an intense hike up we had lunch at Tex Drive-In close by – Don’t skip their malasadas – they are heavenly. We headed to Akaka Falls State Park after to look at the most touristy spot on this side of the Island. 5$ entry to the park and 10$ for parking! Park outside the gates for free – there is plenty of space. 0.4 mile loop trail to see the Falls – Bring a hat, it was hot and humid. Next stop was to Mauna Kea Summit but that needs 4×4 too. There are many tour companies that take you but we found them very expensive 200+$. We did drive up to Visitor center (now closed due to covid) where everyone is supposed to make a mandatory stop to get acclimated to higher altitude. The views from summit are said to be out of the world and start gazing is extraordinary at that elevation. Do plan appropriately if you want to have this in your itinerary. Also very very cold – so dress with layers.
If you are not interested in driving to summit then this could be a beach evening. There are many beautiful beaches around Hilo but they are more rockier and are better for a dip or snorkel then to just hang out by the shore. We visited Carlsmith Beach Park but didnt have swimsuits packed so could not take a dip but I bet it would be great in these spots. Another pretty beach close by is Richardson Ocean Park. Picked up dinner at Puka Puka Kitchen and headed to Airbnb.
Day 4: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Headed to Volcanoes National Park about 45mins from Hilo. We started our exploration with most famous hike on the park – Kilauea Iki Trail and Crater Rim Trail – 3miles almost easy hike that takes you to middle of the crater. The landscape changes from rainforest around the rim to Mars like environment at the crater with steams still venting out from cracked floor. The earlier you start less crowded this will be. Also obviously no shade once you are in the crater so mornings would be wiser but still carry hat, water and sunscreen. We started from right side of the trail and came up from left , while also visiting Nāhuku – Thurston Lava Tube . Its partially lit so torch lights are not mandatory but would be useful. It was cool to be walking inside a tube made due to the lava flow! After the hike we had lunch at Tuk-Tuk Thai Food Truck in Volcano village close by – Their Avocado and pumpkin curries are delicious, must try. Spent the afternoon driving to many points in the NP to see the famous “world’s only drivable” volcano – Kīlauea. Points we covered were Sulphur Banks, Steam Vents, Kilauea Overlook. When we visited, Kīlauea Volcano was erupting at Halema‘uma‘u crater although there was no lava flow outside the caldera. The lava lake is so deep within that its not visible from any vantage points but during the night the glow of the lava lights up the sky. Road past Kilauea overlook were closed due to danger of poisonous gases and seismic activity.
We next headed on chain of craters road which is literally that. Lots of stops to make on the road to witness the multiple craters from eruptions dating from 60s. You drive from the main crater down to the sea where new land was created(Kalpana). It is lava fields all over. When you reach the sea level turn back to visualize lava flowing from the crater to the sea. It is surreal ! There are so many stops on the way on this 19mile road which ends at Hōlei Sea Arch – 90-foot arched rock formation in a volcanic cliff. We headed back to the Kilauea Overlook while enjoying sunset drive up the volcano. Now it was time to wait for the night glow of the lava. We could have picked up food until then but we didn’t – don’t do that mistake. Like I said most restaurants around these regions close very early, before sunset sometimes. The rangers suggested to wait until about an hour after sunset to see the glow and it was worth it. Gets pretty cold around this area so layer up and always keep umbrella or raincoats handy all through out the NP.
Day 5: Explore South part of the Island
It was time to checkout of our Hilo Airbnb and drive towards Kona. We planned to explore South region of the Island on the way. First stop Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach, the most famous one on Island – which is about 1.5hrs from Hilo. Clean rest/change rooms, lots of shade, sea turtles, lotus flowers on the backwaters. Black sand gets pretty heated up during midday so wear slippers, water shoes. We had lunch later at Aloha Mix Food Truck Cafe – sampler shrimp plate – lip-smacking ! Next we were onto Green Sand Beach – one of four such beaches in the world! This beach is almost at the tip of island and also the southernmost in United States. This remote beach can only be accessed by foot or a 4×4 with an experienced driver. Self driving on the route is not for everyone. Most people either hike or take one of the local trucks that pick you up like sheep in their car trunks (hold on to the bars for your lives – the drive is bumpy to say the least). The hike is 5.7 miles round trip and is not too difficult. We decided to hike up to the beach and took a lift from the local trucks on our way back – (20$ for two way or 10$ for one way trip, carry cash). Trail was not bad at all , breezy hike along the ocean but rocky most path so good shoes recommended. We rewarded ourselves with a dip in the ocean and it was great.
After heading back to the parking we changed and drove down a little further to the Southmost point of United States of America. Unlike KeyWest there is no landmark here, no tourists, only sound of waves and enormous cliffs. You will see locals catching fish and may be even some whales if you are lucky. We then started our drive to Kona which was about 1.5hours from there. After long rainy drive we rewarded ourselves with a nice dinner at Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill.
Day 6: Island’s West Side
Started the day with hike to island’s best snorkeling spot – Kealakekua Bay. The hike is easy down but hard climb up, especially with the snorkeling gear. This bay is only accessible by a hike or boat/kayak tours so look at all options before you decide. Captain Cook Monument Trail , 4miles out-and-back ,that goes down to the monument on the bay shores is one of the popular hikes for adventure seekers so we decided to take it and we were not disappointed. Views change from covered to fully exposed with ocean views. Snorkeling was so much fun here – so many fishes with Yellow tangs dominating. Had great fun exploring the bay. After hiking back we had lunch at Shaka Tacoz few yards from parking lot. Must try. Headed to Airbnb to change and freshen up and relaxed rest of the afternoon at Magic Sands Beach – First white sand beach we encountered in days on this island. Later we went into Kona town for some ice-cream and souvenir shopping and got ourselves ready for night snorkel.
Magical Snorkel 
Flying swiftly In water
We have snorkeled with Manta rays in the wild before in Maldives. But Kona is world famous for their night snorkeling with these enormous creatures. There are many tour companies that offer this experience , we went with Sea Quest Hawaii. We didnt ride too far away from shores, the Manta’s just knew where they should be. You just hold on to light bars floating on the water with your head down and the Mantas come right to you – although they look intimidating they don’t want to feed on you but on the planktons that are feeding on the light. It was an amazing feeling to be able to see them up close. The light bars make the whole experience even more unreal. The crew was knowledgeable and patient and followed all covid protocols, with about 8 people on the boat. It was a fun night.
Day 7: Explore North West Beaches
Hapuna Beach 
Beach 69 
Manini’owali Beach (Kua Bay)
Started driving to our farthest beach for today – Hāpuna Beach State Park which was about 50minutes from our Airbnb. Beautiful long stretch of white sand beach. Lots of parking, great facilities and life guards on duty. Spent good amount of time here. Then drove to Beach 69 (yeah its called that but for different reason) just adjacent to Hapuna beach. Mostly shaded with kiawe trees , perfect beach for mid day and great opportunity for snorkeling around. I heard the waves are much rough in the winter and the whole shore is covered with water. So this is mostly a summer beach. Next we picked some malasadas from Hot Malasadas Truck close by and headed towards ʻAnaehoʻomalu Beach after having lunch at Island Fish & Chips on the way. Next stop was Manini’owali Beach (Kua Bay) our personal favorite. Colors of water were different shades of blue here! Good beach with nice facilities. We changed to swim wear and hopped into the waters! As our tradition to end Hawaiian trip with beautiful sunset continues, final beach stop was Old Kona Airport State Recreation Area for sunset. As always it was spectacular. Ended the day and trip relaxing and enjoying breezy ambience and food at On the Rocks.
Day 8: Fly Back to Reality.
Some more notable spots:
- Pololū Valley Lookout : This was park of our Day 7, until we decided to skip it since it was too far to drive. I have heard this spot is more beautiful than Waipio Valley lookout. If you do plan to visit this, make sure you hike down the short trail.
- Kaunaʻoa (Mauna Kea) Beach – just above Hapuna beach.
- Spencer Beach Park : Much quieter I hear.
- Kahalu’u Beach : Close to Kona and best for snorkeling
- Two Step: Another great easily accessible snorkeling spot.
- Richardson Ocean Park: Nice beach for snorkeling on Hilo side.
- Hilo Farmers Market: Best for their produce and local find.
- Mauna Kea and Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station for stargazing
Budget & Time Friendly Tips:
- We never spend time or money on breakfasts. We usually pick grocery necessary for our trip on 1st/2nd day and eat breakfast at Airbnb/hotel. You need to make sure your place of stay has basic kitchenette to make this possible. A toaster, fridge are the minimal things we expect. Our breakfast is usually bread-peanut butter/nutella, scrambled eggs if there is stove and cookware and bananas. We also keep cereal bars/energy bars handy just incase we are hungry before lunch/dinner.
- Local/regional grocery stores are way cheaper. In Big Island we found KTA grocery stores remarkably cheaper than Safeways.
- Try to eat were locals do rather than tourists.
- Book resort stays only if you know you are not going out to explore. Otherwise Airbnbs/VRBOs/Homeaways are your best hosts.
Big Island Points of Interest on Maps
The google maps list can be found here: BigIsland Points of Interest which includes spots for visiting and famous restaurants.
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